The Month Before

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Friday, October 28, 2022

One month to departure.  In one month I board the plane to Buenos Aires and ultimately to Ushuaia where I catch the Ocean Endeavour for points south.  The website is not done and it’s dawning on me that it’s a constantly evolving entity.  Soon, I'll be putting up the Antarctic Chronicles (these writings) on the site - OroCreek.com - with links so friends and families can track the progress of the Ocean Endeavour.  I’ll probably not have access to the internet, or spotty at best, but I hope to assemble some sort of travel blog, maybe even a few photos.  The bulk of what I photograph and video there though will have to wait until I return.

Plenty to do in the way of preparation as well.  What to take, what to leave behind.  This is not like packing for a typical vacation.  In addition to the camera equipment there is all the foul weather gear to consider as well - and doing so in a way that uses the least space.  It entails envisioning what will be happening each day (and night in some cases) as well as planning for those unknowns - both known and unknown - that will likely occur.  I’ll make some mistakes, I just hope they’re small and easily circumvented.

Thursday, November 3, 2022

Less than 4 weeks before departure.  Understandably, I am starting to plan and do more that is focused on the trip.  It appears I’ll be saddled with one checked bag, one carry-on suitcase, and my backpack - lightly filled.  That’s more than I’d hoped for but to carry less could negatively impact the time in Antarctica as there will be some challenging weather - you just can’t spend two weeks in that part of the world and not encounter storms.

I’m starting to track the Ocean Endeavour.  It’s currently in Punta Arenas, Chile arriving there this morning from Montevideo, Uruguay.  I’m also tracking ship traffic to and from the Weddell Sea. I'd like to know how many ships ply those waters.  Right now, the MV Plancius has just come round Hope Bay in the Antarctic Sound at the northern tip of the Peninsula after spending some period of time in the Weddell Sea.  It has not been the first though as Quark’s Ultramarine and Aurora Expedition’s Greg Mortimer were in the Weddell Sea just a couple of days ago. In all cases, it seems the ships sail down the west side of Andersson Island and then traverse the Sound towards Dundee Island before heading back north to the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula.  No other ships are presently in the Weddell Sea. By the way, you can track most any ship at CruiseMapper.

Friday, November 4, 2022

The Ocean Endeavour is back out to sea. It left Punta Arenas and headed northwest out of the Straits of Magellan the way it entered instead of sailing through to the south.  The ship passed just east of Cabo San Diego at the eastern tip of the Mitre Peninsula around noon.  It’s heading southeast but it’s unclear if it’s aiming for the Weddell or will it be joining the “fleet” congregating at the western side of the Antarctic Peninsula - there are six ships there at this moment and none in the Weddell Sea.

Saturday, November 5, 2022

There seems to be some movement in the Weddell Sea today.  The Ocean Nova traversed the Antarctic Sound and passed Cape Green at the tip of the Tabarin Peninsula this morning.  It seems to be heading east to pass on the south side of Andersson Island - it could mean the pack ice is breaking up enough to allow some of the stouter ships through to the south.  The National Geographic Explorer has gone even further south.  It passed Cape Gordon on Vega Island is now heading WNW toward Devil Island. Meanwhile, the Ocean Endeavour is about halfway across the Drake Passage - making a bee line for a point west of the Shetland Islands.  It’s sailing in a bubble of mild air but there are rain and snow squalls all around it with some stronger weather scheduled to converge on the Shetlands about the same time it reaches the peninsula.  For this sailing, it appears as though it’s going to be an easy passage through the Drake.

Sunday, November 6, 2022

The NG Explorer made it to the northern tip of Snow Hill Island - the furthest south any ship has sailed thus far this season.  It didn’t dally long in the Weddell Sea though as it is already back on the western side of the Peninsula and headed for Deception Island. I hope their guests got to see the Emperor penguins there. The Ocean Nova never made it to the east side of Andersson Island.  It turned back north shortly after passing Cape Green and is already back on the west side of the Peninsula and well along the Orleans Strait just off Trinity Island.  There are currently no ships in the Weddell Sea but Quark’s Ocean Adventurer and Albatros Expedition’s newly built Ocean Victory are both headed in that.  As for the Ocean Endeavour, it is through the Drake Passage and is in the Shetland Islands.  It’s still in a bubble of good weather but the bubble is getting smaller as the squalls surrounding it intensify.

The Ocean Endeavour harbored at Deception Island for the better part of the afternoon. The island is actually the caldera of an active volcano that last erupted in 1969.  It is a well-sheltered harbor and relatively safe - if you discount the fact that it’s an active volcano.  Curiously, the Ocean Victory has done an about face and is heading back north without even going as far as Andersson Island, leaving the Weddell Sea void of ships for the day.

Monday, November 7, 2022

Variable weather today.  The Ocean Endeavour is at a latitude of 64° 63’ sheltered in relatively calm waters of Charlotte Bay on the western side of the Peninsula. Whereas at the northern tip of the Peninsula at Hope Bay, Poseidon Expedition’s Sea Spirit is in near gale conditions with winds at 40 mph.  The Weddell Sea is still devoid of ships this morning.

Later in the day, the Ocean Endeavour appeared to have anchored at Portal Point, approx. 64°5’  A possible rookery?

Tuesday, November 8, 2022

This morning, the Ocean Endeavour is harbored at 64°49’ at Goudier Island - Port Lockroy, home of the world’s most remote post office, aka the Penguin Post Office. It was primarily a whaling station until 1944 when Great Britain established a military base there to discourage Hitler from using the continent to wage war.  Now, it is the most touristed spot in Antarctica.  The four post office workers share the island with about 3,000 Gentoo penguins and they welcome about 18,000 visitors a year.  Today it is the passengers of the Ocean Endeavour’s turn - although with snow and freezing temperatures forecast for at least the next 8 days it’s probably a wet and snowy visit for them.

There is also activity in the Weddell Sea. The MV Ortelius has cleared the Sound and is on a heading to Devil Island.  So far, the National Geographic Explorer is the only ship to have gone to Snow Hill Island - although it is still very early in the season.

There are now twenty vessels plying the waters from Punta Arenas to the Weddell Sea, cycling out from Tierra del Fuego, to the Falklands, the South Georgia Islands, Weddell Sea, West Antarctic Peninsula, the Shetland Islands, and back again.

Wednesday, November 9, 2022

The Ocean Endeavour is lingering in Paradise Harbor among the Lemaire Islands, supposedly one of the more picturesque areas of the Peninsula. Meanwhile, the MV Ortelius remains in the Weddell Sea. It has completed its tour of Devil Island and is now headed east to Paulet Island.  It is the only ship in the Weddell Sea today, but the MV Magellan Explorer which left the South Georgia Islands on November 7 appears to be heading there.

The weather on the west side of the Peninsula, as predicted, remains snowy and icy with temperatures hovering around the freezing mark.  In the Weddell Sea around the MV Ortelius it’s a bit more chilly at 10°F with a light breeze at 10mph.

Thursday, November 10, 2022

The morning finds the Ocean Endeavour anchored in Fournier Bay off Anvers Island.  High temperature is predicted to be 7°F with a 95% chance of snow..  The water temperature is 29°F with waves as high as 2.7m.  Winds are out of the west at 10-20 mph and snow, sometimes heavy, is predicted through next Wednesday.  Even though the sun won’t be visible because of cloud cover, it rose at 4:02 AM and sets at 21.53 PM - providing almost 18 hours of daylight and an additional 2 hours of twilight due to the low trajectory of the sun in the high latitudes.

The MV Magellan Explorer entered the Weddell Sea overnight from the east side of Dundee Island and is anchored at Paulet Island, one of the many cinder cone islands in the James Ross Island Volcanic Group.  The biggest draw of the island is a rookery of about 100,000 breeding pairs of Adélie penguins.  

The island is also the final resting place of Ole Christian Wennersgaard, one of the sailors of the ill-fated Swedish Antarctic Expedition of 1903.  Their ship was crushed by pack ice and the survivors had to spend two winters in Antarctica before they were rescued.  Ironically, the crew of Shackleton’s 1914 expedition on the three-masted barquentine Endurance, whose ship was also crushed by pack ice, planned to hike to Paulet Island to use the stores left by the Swedish expedition but the pack ice they were stranded on drifted too far to the east.  The remaining crew of the Endurance were eventually rescued in 1916 on Elephant Island.

Friday, November 11, 2022

Just after midnight the Ocean Endeavour left the Peninsula and started its return across the Drake Passage to Ushuaia.  The ship appears to be racing ahead of a significant front approaching from the west.  For the travelers aboard, their trip is nearly over and if they’re lucky their passage across the Drake Passage will be as smooth as when they left Punta Arenas on November 4.  Today, there is no activity in the Weddell Sea. 

Saturday, November 12, 2022

Daybreak finds the Ocean Endeavour southeast of Isla Nueva at the entrance to the Beagle Channel.  The cruise will be over in a few hours, the ship’s crew will replenish its stores, and they will make the preparations for a new batch of travelers.

The Magellan Explorer did not linger in the Weddell Sea.  After its visit to Paulet Island it headed west through the Antarctic Sound and is already anchored in Paradise Bay.  That, once again, leaves the Weddell void of ships - but that is about to change.  The National Geographic Endurance is entering the Sound from the west and just a few hours behind is its sister ship, the National Geographic Resolution - but it is sailing in rough seas and near gale winds.  So far, only three operators have ventured into the Weddell Sea; Oceanwide Expeditions, Antarctica21 Air-Cruises, and Lindblad Expeditions - operator of the National Geographic ships.

There are now 28 tour ships in the waters around Tierra del Fuego, the Falklands, South Georgia Islands, South Shetland Islands, and the Peninsula.  Not knowing any better, I’d say the season is fully active and it underscores the need for controlling access to these fragile lands.  Even if there’s only 200 visitors on each of those ships, that’s nearly 6,000 people in one week visiting places that, at best, are populated by only a handful of people.

Sunday, November 13, 2022

The Ocean Endeavour is still in port at Ushuaia.  I suspect they might be leaving this afternoon as it seems they’re partial to afternoon departures.  Meanwhile, the Endurance and the Resolution both anchored at opposite sides of Snow Hill Island and didn’t sail until the afternoon.

The skies above the Peninsula are largely clear but there is some scattered snow. The air temperature along the coast and the islands is hovering around 15°F with the winds making the air feel a bit colder. Travel inland though and the temperature drops considerably to 5°F - and the 20mph winds bring the wind chill down to a not-so-comfortable -25°F.

There are now 34 cruise ships in the area with two more en route from Montevideo and Rio de Janeiro.  I’m actually surprised that there are so many and it makes me curious as to how crowded it will be this season.  Assuming the final number of ships tops out at 40 and that each ship makes, on average, 6 sailings into Antarctic waters that means there will be 240 trips this season and if each ship averages 250 passengers that brings the estimated total visitors to 60,000 - pretty much the average of IAATO’s numbers for the last two seasons.

Later in the day, as anticipated, the Ocean Endeavour was sailing east out of the Beagle Channel and towards the Drake Passage.

Monday, November 14, 2022

The Ocean Endeavour is going to have a rougher passage through the Drake than its previous voyage. There is a pretty strong line of squalls stretching all the way between Tierra del Fuego and the Peninsula just west of the ship’s path and as those squalls move eastward there is no way for the ship to avoid them.  And the further south the ship travels the greater the intensity of the storms.  It’s already snowing on Anvers Island and the weather service is predicting an accumulation of 8 inches with winds of 25 mph.

The National Geographic Resolution left the Weddell Sea overnight and is northwest of Deception Island.  The Endurance though, true to its name, has remained in the Weddell Sea on its grand 21-day tour. It is navigating the channel separating the Peninsula from James Ross Island at a latitude of 63°9’ where the weather has yet to hit.

Replacing the Resolution in the Weddell Sea is the Scenic Eclipse on its 29-day voyage across the Pacific. It left Guayaquil, Ecuador on October 24, lingered in the Galapagos Islands for a few days, and is now anchored off Snow Hill Island.

Tuesday, November 15, 2022

The Scenic Eclipse had a short stay in the Weddell Sea.  It left overnight and is already in the Shetland Islands, anchored at Half Moon Island in the McFarlane Strait.  The National Geographic Endurance, though, continues to linger in the Weddell Sea and is off Tay Head on Joinville Island.  It has spent more time in the Weddell Sea than any other vessel this season thus far.

Another ship has ventured into the Weddell Sea.  Hurtigruten’s MS Roald Amundsen passed through the Sound; it appears to be on a heading to Snow Hill Island.  It’s a large ship, it holds 600 passengers, which means the people aboard are experiencing a sail by only as, per IAATO guidelines, ships with more than 500 passengers are not permitted to disembark any passengers. As compensation though, they are getting an in-depth, albeit long distance, view of Antarctica as earlier it had ventured as far south as 65°15’ near Petermann Island on the western side of the Peninsula.

The Ocean Endeavour is still in the Drake Passage and has not yet landed in the South Shetland Islands.  They have averted the snow squalls though and are enjoying sunny skies.

Wednesday, November 16, 2022

Ponant’s Le Commandant Charcot is the latest ship to enter the Weddell Sea taking the place of the Roald Amundsen which did not linger long. The MS Expedition ventured into the Antarctic Sound but did not appear to actually enter the Weddell Sea before turning back to explore the west side of the Peninsula.  The Ocean Endeavour passed by the South Shetlands and made for the Gerlache Strait to explore the many islands and inlets there.

The National Geographic Endurance left the Weddell Sea for the South Orkney Islands after spending 4 days exploring the ice and Islands that comprise the northwestern shores.

With about 10 days to my own departure, more and more, my thoughts are shifting towards finalizing preparations.  Double checking gear, testing equipment, updating electronics, further studies with the cameras, website updates, photo reviews.

Thursday, November 17, 2022

Oceanwide Expedition’s MV Ortelius is making its second tour of the Weddell Sea this season, passing through the Sound earlier today and anchoring off the Tabarin Peninsula. Le Commandant Charcot continues south and is exploring the south side of Snow Hill Island while the Ocean Endeavour continues at a leisurely pace on the west side of the Peninsula.

Friday, November 18, 2022

The Viking Octantis entered the Weddell Sea overnight - the twelfth visit to the Weddell this season - passing through the narrow channel between Joinville and Dundee islands.  But it just did a touch-n-go, and headed back through the Sound later in the afternoon. The MV Ortelius went as far south as Snow hill Island, something it did not accomplish on its voyage a few weeks ago.  Meanwhile, the Le Commandant Charcot continues southward.  It has ventured further south than any other ship in the Weddell Sea this year and perched on the edge of the Larsen Ice Shelf at 65°6’ south near Robertson Island before turning about and heading back north.  That makes the first time this season there are three ships in the Weddell Sea while the total ship count in the overall Tierra del Fuego/Antarctica area remains at 34.  To put that number into perspective, there are roughly 90 tour ships currently sailing in the Caribbean.

The Ocean Endeavour is currently off Enterprise Island and headed to Deception Island where snow is again predicted for the next week.  I’m not sure if this is typical or not but it’s been snowing on a near daily basis around the Peninsula for at least two weeks.

Final plans are quickening.  There is still over a week until departure but the Thanksgiving holiday and all of the trimmings that go along with it cuts the planning and preparation time considerably.  My intentions of traveling with just an under seat backpack and a carry-on piece of luggage was just wishful thinking.  The carry-on holds the camera gear and little else.  The backpack will be light but the check-in bag will be near full.  I haven’t heard any negative news lately about luggage problems.  It seems the airlines have made significant improvements to their baggage handling and I hope to benefit from that.

Saturday, November 19, 2022

The Ocean Endeavour is already on its way back to Ushuaia - a very short voyage for those passengers.  It appears the ship will reach port on November 21 so it appears it will have time for one more quick trip before it embarks on my excursion.  Just as when the ship left Ushuaia and sailed through the Drake Passage on its way to the Peninsula, it is encountering less than ideal conditions - winds at 20 mph and 15 foot waves will accompany the travelers on that sailing.

The Le Commandant Charcot, on the other hand, is extending its stay in the Weddell Sea.  It is currently anchored at the Larsen Inlet with the Sobral Peninsula to the west. At 64°26’ the ship has backed off from its deepest penetration into the Weddell Sea and it is on its fourth day in the Weddell.  It will likely exceed the National Geographic’s Endurance’s time spent in the Weddell Sea.  The MV Ortelius also remains in the Weddell Sea and it begins its third day there, although it is heading back north toward the Antarctic Strait.  The Seabourn Venture is also in the Strait, currently cruising Hope Bay - it is unclear if it will pass completely through the Strait and join the other two ships in the Weddell.

My own travel planning is largely done.  The only things not yet packed are the items I’ll need up to leaving the house next Monday - shaver, toothbrush, etc.  The excitement is building as well as these final days tick down to departure. Fortunately, there is still plenty to do with continued photo work and ongoing website changes so I can display what I hope will be some pretty spectacular photos.

Sunday, November 20, 2022

The Seabourn Venture never passed completely through the Antarctic Sound and reversed course with nearly 320 passengers on board there would be limited opportunities to go ashore anyway.  It’s currently harbored at the south end of Trinity Island where there is freezing rain and moderate seas.  Quark’s Ocean Diamond made a rapid run to Snow Hill Island overnight making it the thirteenth ship to visit the Weddell Sea this season as it joins Le Commandant Charcot which remains in the Weddell Sea.

The Ocean Endeavour is slowly making its way through the Drake Passage as it continues on its course back to Ushuaia.

Monday, November 21, 2022

One week from departure. With the planning and packing all done, there’s really nowhere to direct the energy born from anticipation of the trip.  But there is always more work to be done on the website as well as experimenting with various settings on the camera - and with Thanksgiving just a few days away that provides its own distraction.

Surprisingly, the Ocean Endeavour is still en route to Ushuaia having just entered the Beagle Channel at dawn.  If it makes another trip before my departure it will be a short run.  Just as surprising, Le Commandant Charcot remains in the Weddell and is revisiting Snow Hill Island.  This marks the sixth day Le Commandant has been plying the waters of the Weddell Sea.  The Ocean Diamond also remains in the Weddell and is anchored at the seemingly popular Paulet Island.

The overall ship count in the Antarctic region remains at 34.  Although, in an exchange with my contact at Chimu, Gavin informed me he believes there will be more than 40 ships overall this season.

Tuesday, November 22, 2022

The Ocean Endeavour finally made it to port and is taking on provisions and new passengers in Ushuaia.  It was a quick turnaround and she left later in the afternoon.

The Ocean Diamond passed back through the Sound leaving the Weddell Sea to meander along the western Antarctic Peninsula - but the National Geographic Explorer replaced it making its second appearance in Weddell this season.  And, Le Commandant marks day 7 in the Weddell Sea as it circumnavigates James Ross Island.

Late in the day, the Hanseatic Nature entered the Weddell Sea, but just barely.  It paused at Paulet Island then passed back through the Sound on a heading to Ushuaia.

Wednesday, November 23, 2022

The Ocean Endeavour is a third of the way across the Drake Passage and it is looking like a clear and smooth passage as the ship is traveling under an extensive high pressure dome.  They should have a relaxed sail to the South Shetlands.

The National Geographic Explorer made a beeline for Snow Hill Island and is anchored at its southwest shore while Le Commandant lingers in the Weddell for its eighth day.  Those are the only ships in the Weddell and none of the other 38 ships in the vicinity appear to be headed in that direction.

At home, thoughts of Antarctic travel are being displaced with those of Thanksgiving and of brining the turkey for the fryer tomorrow.  Besides, except for the last day items, all is ready.

I’ve also been thinking about my grandfather who 100 years ago embarked on his own little adventure when he and a couple of friends decided to drive to California from Chicago.  Today, that’s simply a road trip and millions of people have enjoyed the experience of cross-country driving.  But in 1922 there was no interstate highway system, there were not even many state highways - especially after crossing the Mississippi River.  In fact, in many places there were no roads at all - just a couple of wagon wheel ruts.  Certainly, a much more rigorous and strenuous experience than jumping on a boat and taking a few hikes in Antarctica.  This is actually a pretty cushy excursion and it makes me wonder if 100 years from now, travel to Antarctica, in some form, will be as common as driving cross-country and maybe easier.

Thursday, November 24, 2022

Happy Thanksgiving!

The Ocean Endeavour is back in the South Shetland Islands but she appears to be heading straight for the Peninsula without lingering at any of the coves and islands.  The National Geographic Explorer left the Weddell Sea overnight and after 8 days in the Weddell Sea, Le Commandant Charcot is heading back to Ushuaia.  In fact, it’s well over halfway through the Drake Passage as of midday today so it’s either in a hurry, or a very powerful ship - perhaps both.  Their departure leaves the Weddell Sea void of any ships today - the first time since November 4.

Friday, November 25, 2022

The Weddell Sea remains empty of ships today.  The weather is generally calm throughout the Peninsula except for some light snow in the west.  All in all, a quiet day.

Saturday, November 26, 2022

The National Geographic Resolution is in the Weddell Sea for its second visit of the season.  It sailed through the Sound overnight and was at Snow Hill Island by day break.  The MV Sea Spirit also entered the Sea overnight but is lingering further to the north around Paulet Island.

There are now 43 tour ships in the area from Parque Nacional Torres de Paine on the coast of Chile east to the South Georgia Islands.  It is a large area for the ships to disperse and for the most part there is considerable distance between them, except for the area around Paradise Harbor where a dozen ships are clustered in or around the inlet - the Ocean Endeavour being one of them.

There is moderate snow in that area but the Drake Passage is entirely clear of weather.  I’ll be keeping my eye on the next weather system to blow through the Drake though.  It appears to be a fairly strong storm currently southwest of Tierra del Fuego and depending on its speed it could converge on the Drake Passage about the time the Ocean Endeavour leaves port on Thursday.  As it is, the weather forecast in Ushuaia is as follows:

For my arrival on Tuesday - high of 44° F, low of 33° F, cloudy and windy.

For my trek and rail ride in the park on Wednesday - pretty much the same.

For embarkation on Thursday - it warms a few degrees but rain is now accompanying the winds

For Friday, while we’re well into the Drake Passage - rain and snow.

Sunday, November 27, 2022

It’s nearly departure day.  Time to pack the camera gear, charge the batteries and electronics, and give one final review of the checklist.  And also tend to all the last minute items that suddenly appear due to lack of oversight - like the small outdoor thermometer for ambient air temperature checks (a meat thermometer might work fine, compact and accurate) - or the ones that are imposed by others, please leave room to bring back something that shouts, Antarctica!

The trip, in my mind, actually begins today.  One of the beautiful things about travel, and when you peel back all the layers and strip it to its essence maybe it is THE reason we love it so much - it forces us to live consciously.  Every act and action becomes a conscious decision from among the vast arrays that are there before us, most of which normally goes ignored.

We need routine, it helps us to function more efficiently.  If we had to plot our course in detail every time we go to the store or head off to work it would be exhausting.  But routine allows us to put those decisions on automatic while we focus our thoughts on other matters, sometimes on loftier aspirations.  But problems arise when we put our whole life on automatic as we filter out or ignore sometimes obvious signals that might enhance our lives or make them easier.  Sure, the unexpected might pop itself into our routine, maybe even unsettling it for a time, but our instinct seems to be to restore the routine as quickly as possible rather than to consciously think about the options that might be presented. In short, we miss out on life and all its wonders when we put our lives on auto and keep it there.

Travel, especially to those places that are foreign to us, forces us to make decisions - there are no routines to try and maintain.  Even the mundane takes on new significance and beauty when we look at it with conscious intent. Everything that happens, the paths we explore, the choices we make, are the result of conscious decisions.  It is beautiful, sometimes uncomfortable or inconvenient, but beautiful nonetheless.  It is the beauty of life and travel makes it easier to experience.

The Ocean Endeavour.  This morning it is in Orne Harbor as the ship explores the western Peninsula in detail - along with 7 other ships that are within a 30-mile radius.  It’s got four days to get back to Ushuaia for our rendezvous.

Activity in the Weddell Sea has upticked significantly overnight, from no ships two days ago to 4 ships today - the National Geographic Resolution (2nd visit), MV Ortelius (3rd visit), Seabourn Venture, and the Ocean Adventurer.  Far from being “one of the first” ships in the Weddell Sea this season, the count is 16 and growing.  It’s OK, the Weddell Sea does not keep score.

The entire Peninsula is currently under a bubble of calm with light winds and temperatures around 27° F.  That will change later in the week, Wednesday and Thursday, when gale winds (45 mph) and widely-spread heavy snows are predicted throughout the Drake Passage, the Antarctic Peninsula, and the Weddell Sea.